Saturday, July 04, 2009

The Delights of Baking in Fez



The interior of our local bakery - one of many.

Every quarter of the Fez Medina has its own communal bakery, but they cook more than bread writes guest contributor Anne Marie Witulski.
Children carrying large metal pans with bread dough shaped in perfect circles to the public oven is a popular sight in the Medina. While fresh baked bread from the oven is delicious, you can make many other dishes at this local institution. Some families make pastries, cookies, and even cook fish and potatoes. We chose to make a familiar favourite, pizza, recently.


Our pizza ready to be taken to the bakery.


We were invited inside by the baker, Abdessalam, to take a look at the oven.It consists of a wood-burning fire and a large slab of cement enclosed in concrete.


Abdessalam, waiting for customers.

Items are placed through the metal door and onto the cement slab in front of the fire with the use of large wooden dowels. Abdessalam slides breads, pizzas, cookies and even main courses in and out of the heat at precisely the right moment. He keeps track of whose bread is whose and always replaces the bread to the correct metal pan aided only by his memory.



Taking our finished pizza from the oven.

His assistant, Mohammed, knows each families bread-making style and is able to return the bread to the customers without them saying a word. To the outsider, all the breads appear exactly the same, but to the experts, the subtleties of each family's bread making style are obvious.


Good enough to eat - which we did.

They seemed to welcome the change of pace of the pizza and took great interest in how long it would take in the oven. After less than 15 minutes, the pizza was done and the whole process costed only 2.5 dirhams!

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Sunday, June 28, 2009

Festival of Amazigh Culture



The 5th Edition of the Festival of Amazigh Culture takes place in Fez, 2-5 July 2009, Morocco. It is organised by the SPIRIT OF FES FOUNDATION, FES SAISS ASSOCIATION AND The SOUTH NORTH CENTRE, in partnership with The Royal Institute of Amazigh Culture and Foundation BMCE


THE 5th FESTIVAL OF AMAZIGH CULTURE IN FES

The festival is organized annually in an attempt to participatE in the national efforts to promote Amazigh culture. The main objective of this initiative is to highlight the historical and social significance of Arab-Amazigh cultural dialogue, and the role of culture in the process of democratization. The festival also aims to establish coherent strategies to consolidate intercultural dialogue, social cohesion, and democratic culture in the Muslim world.

The festival includes two MAJOR components:

- One devoted to the international conference on

“Multiculturalism and Democracy in the Muslim World”

- And another component devoted to the Amazigh music, arts, and poetry

The sub-themes of this conference are:

1. multiculturalism and political pluralism in Muslim countries
2. Democracy at the service of multiculturalism
3. multiculturalism, secularism, and Islam
4. modernity and social change
5. Multiculturalism, democratic culture, and Globalization
6. Multiculturalism and linguistic diversity
7. multiculturalism and artistic creation


The international conference will take place in the "palais des congrès" near the Wilaya of Fes, and the music concerts will take place at Bab Boujloud (8pm) and at Bab Makina (9:30 pm).
You are most welcome to attend. Entrance is free. Please bring your family and friends too.




Website: www.festivalamazigh.on.ma


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Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Morocco elects woman mayor for Marrakech


" I am honored to lead Marrakech city hall,I hope to be able to measure up to this new challenge " Fatima Zahra Mansouri
A 33-year-old lawyer on Monday became the first woman to be elected mayor of Marrakech, one of Morocco's biggest cities and a key tourist destination.

Fatima Zahra Mansouri outpolled veteran outgoing Mayor Omar Jazouli by 54 votes to 35 in Monday's municipal council vote, becoming the second woman to take a mayoral position in Morocco after Asmaa Chaâbi, mayor of Essaouira.

"I am honored to lead Marrakech city hall," Mansouri said. "I hope to be able to measure up to this new challenge."

Mansouri studied law in France, and is a daughter of a former assistant to the local authority chief in Marrakech, which has a population of more than one million.

"Her election reflects the image of a modern Morocco," said the secretary general of her Party for Authenticity and Modernity (PAM) Sheikh Muhammad Biyadillah.

Morccan woman voting

Following the June 12 local elections, PAM won 43 seats in Marrakech second to al-Ittihad al-Doustouri party, which won 50 seats.

PAM, despite ranking second, managed to ally with a number of parties and form a majority coalition of 62 members to support Mansouri.


Disputed candidacy

Prior to Mansouri’s election a number of Moroccan newspapers reported that parties allied with PAM refused to endorse Mansouri and had threatened to break away from the party if it continued pushing for Mansouri’s candidacy.

PAM’s coalition parties said Mansouri lacked sufficient public management experience and could fail to resolve major issues the city council may encounter, such as al-Maghribia and al-Marrakchia newspapers reported Monday.

The newspapers reported today that undisclosed political bargaining led the endorsement of Mansouri by PAM’s allies.

PAM was the biggest winner in June 12 municipal elections, taking 21 percent of the votes, edging out the Istiqlal party of Prime Minister Abbas al-Fassi.

The polls were a first electoral test for the PAM, a coalition of five small parties formed in 2008 by former interior minister Fouad Ali al-Himma, a friend of King Mohammed VI of Morroco.

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Thursday, June 18, 2009

Swine Flu in Morocco - Update


The Moroccan health authorities have confirmed eight A/H1N1 flu cases since the introduction of the virus in the north African country a week ago.

Seven of the eight patients came on flights from Canada between June 9th and 15th, and the eighth came from the United States, Health Minister Yasmina Baddou said before the weekly cabinet meeting.

The minister said all eight are being treated in the university hospitals of Fez, Rabat and Casablanca, and are in good condition.

The country have previously detected 19 cases suspected of bearing the virus since April 28, through the fever detectors, installed in the country's larges airports. Seventeen of them are tested free of virus, while results for the other two have not yet been released.

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Book launch at Café Clock


A reminder that Café Clock are holding the exclusive launch of Thomas Hollowell's book, Allah's Garden, this sunday at 5pm. Thomas will be reading excerpts from the book and then a 'Q & A' session followed by signing copies.

Following the lunch 3issawa will take over with music from 6.30pm..


There's also a competition: once 5000 books have been sold, there'll be a draw with a prize of a 10-night trip to Morocco. If you purchase the book from the publisher, you'll be entered automatically; those who buy it elsewhere can register for the draw on the sponsor's website here.


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Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Moroccan Cinemas: more Films, smaller audiences



The sad story about movie theatres in Morocco is that while they are showing more movies, the audiences are falling away. Abdallah Mchanna reports:


It seems that Moroccans are falling out of love with movie theatres. The tempo associated with watching films in these dark rooms seems to grow increasingly less attractive. The number of people who flock to see their favourable movies dramatically decreases. As a result, a growing number of cinema professionals are in the doldrums and press for urgent solutions.

In a country of more than 30 million people, there are currently only 50 cinemas, down from 70 just last year. They were 250 in 1995. Occupancy rate of these facilities during the last two years did not exceed 6%, according to the latest figures revealed to MAP by the Moroccan cinema centre (CCM), a state-owned body tasked to enhance and regulate the Moroccan and foreign movie-making industry in Morocco.

CCM Officials also say that during the first quarter of 2009, cinema-goers have generated as little revenue as 941,00http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif0 dirhams (116,000 U.S. dollars), proportionally meagre takings, as regards to 2008, when theatre owners raked in 2,960,000 dirhams. The majority of cinema owners are complaining now that what they earn can hardly pay out taxes and employees, and if nothing is done, they may witness the gradual disappearance of all the cinema theatres nationwide.

Cinema theatres: past and present


According to CCM, the difficult situation of movie theatres is basically structural as it dates back to the early 80’s. At the time, theatres' owners had already been suffering from major setbacks, epitomized by high taxes that used often to engulf almost 50% of their revenue. Besides, the competent public authority had also frozen price tickets at a time relevant products, services and taxes were on the rise.

Given the little profitability of the business, cinema owners relied heavily on commercial international films that were often poor in quality and conveyed no real artistic message.

Since the 90's, things got even worse with the spread of film piracy and the appearance of TV channels that screen feature films day and night.

Today, a quick stroll in any Moroccan city suffices to see that thousands of illegal CD and DVD copies containing recent Hollywood movies are overtly sold for no more than five dirhams (slightly over half a dollar). The proliferation of these cheap film outlets contributed significantly to the natural and drastic shrinking in cinema audience.

Now, the few theatres that still survive are under threat of bankruptcy, and closure. Professionals hold that in the absence of an urgent and genuine political will and strategic approach to be devised by both the public authorities and the sector's professionals, movie theatres will be obliged to put the kibosh on.

The bothering paradox

The miserable situation that characterizes owners of cinema theatres stands in the opposite trend of the volume of national and foreign films produced in Morocco.

Due to its natural assets and the administrative and tax incentives, Morocco has for years served as the backdrop for blockbuster films like "The Sheltering Sky" (1990) by Bernardo Bertolucci; "Alexander" (2004) by Oliver Stone and "Babel" (2005) by Constanza Perales. Director Ridley Scott has a particular fondness for shooting films in Morocco, with "Gladiator" (2002), "Kingdom of Heaven" (2005) and "Body of Lies" (2008). Meanwhile, since 1958, about 200 feature films were shot by Moroccan film-makers, with 40 being released in 2008.

Yet, many of the cinema professionals maintain that the evolution of home-made and foreign productions have paradoxically proved incapable of bringing to a halt the decline in cinema audiences throughout the country and also unable to fend off competition from satellite TV and bootlegging.

A re-launch in the wind

From an CCM point of view, there is no doubt that the Moroccan authorities consider the film industry a "serious matter," and grant it an undeniable support through a state fund, established in 1988 to assist financially a selection of films and cinema theatres. In 2008 the fund earmarked to Moroccan film producers the sum of 60 million dirhams (5.45 million Euros).

Many theatre owners complain that the government policy in dealing with their alarming situation is not enough. The sector’s professionals often report that the government should intervene as it did to enhance the sector of textiles and tourism. In other words, more public cash should be put in cinematographic infrastructures.

Aware of these expectations, the government has in fact recently offered the conclusion of contract-programme with the movie-making professionals.

Under this draft agreement, which covers the 2009-2014 period, the professionals are called to adopt a new strategy by helping construct multi-screen cinema complexes, equipped with high technologies and mostly offering parallel entertaining activities such as coffee shops, halls of exhibitions and cultural clubs. Focus is also centred on the quality and diversity film materials to be presented in these complexes.

This draft agreement, which is being supervised by the Ministry of Communication and the professionals of the sector, aspires to constitute a crucial alternative solution to stop the bankruptcy of threats facing many movie theatres, and jump-start a flourishing movie-making industry nationwide.

To capitalize on this project, professionals are urging for further efforts towards more tax incentives, bigger cash assistance, and, above all, efficient measures to crack down of film piracy.

With these objectives reached and high quality films and screens available, they assume with certainty that the public will reconcile with film-going habits.

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Moroccan artists at the Venice Biennale


Fathiya Tahiri and Mahi Binebine are the artists representing Morocco at this year's Venice Biennale. This is a return for Fathiya, who also exhibited at the 51st Venice Biennale back in 2005. The exhibition has been very popular and is beautifully mounted in an old church. The View from Fez made the journey to Venice and here is our report.

Sculpture by Fathiya Tahiri

The Morocco Pavilion at Biennale 2009 is in an extraordinary position in the centre of the most popular tourist area of Venice. This has meant that the Moroccans have had a much wider exposure than many of the pavilions in the actual Biennale site.

Fathiya Tahiri

Fathiya Tahiri and Mahi Binebine, though both linked to the material use of painting, during their expressive training, have also developed different approaches in the field of sculpture.

Fathiya Tahiri began on the artistic scene with a vast production of jewel sculptures, then translated this skill into painting, in countless expressive variations.


Her canvases reveal an attentive scanning of colour which prefers bright pure tones, giving life to extensive descriptive formulae that are inspired by the emotions of the artist, sensitive to intimate perceptions.


A border line in which the artist’s brush insists with a singular expressive force on a timbre of colour, creating fascinating backgrounds that then become the metaphor of an existential condition. Fathiya Tahiri brings about an aesthetic revolution, hovering between an idea of beauty seen as loyalty to an uncorrupted model and the study of new forms, seeking the
unquenchable need for poetic renewal, the intimate essence of art.

Fascinating images, captivating the beholder with the lyrical atmosphere that emanates from their harmony of colours, spring from the imagination of Mahi Binebine. They are often silent masks or trapped figures. They are the same ones that the artist tells us about in his novels, desperate journeys yearning to ask fate for a second chance. Binebine’s work has a formal neatness interrupted by melodic colour combinations created using pure pigments applied directly on the canvas and then skilfully modified by the hands of the artist or by extreme actions that burn the surface. So pure colour may just as easily be silent language, a means of detaching sensations or an element of disturbance.

Art, literature, topical events and tradition live side by side in the works of these two artists. Because in the centre of their art there is always a state of tension involving the natural, primeval world that man too frequently ignores, ill-treats or insults.

Details:

Open to the public: 7 June – 22 November 2009; opening hours 10.00 am – 6.00 pm
(closed on Mondays – except Monday 8 June)
Venue: Chiesa Santa Maria della Pietà, Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 3701, 30122 Venice
Artists: Fathiya Tahiri, Mahi Binebine
Curator: Paolo De Grandis
Commissioners: Dr. Mohiedine El Kadiri Boutchich, Consul General of Morocco in Milan;
Paolo De Grandis, Director of Musée Hassan - Rabat
Deputy Commissioner: Carlotta Scarpa
Organizer: Arte Communications (www.artecommunications.com)
In collaboration with: Consulate General of Morocco in Milan
Under the patronage of: Musée Hassan, Rabat


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Moroccan Election Results



Interior Minister Chakib Benmoussa announced the results of the June 12th local elections on Saturday. He praised the turnout, 52.4%, up from 38% in the legislative elections of 2007, as well as the dramatic increase in the number of women elected, which has increased from 127 in 2003 to 3.406 in this year’s elections.

As anticipated, the newly formed Party of Authenticity and Modernity, PAM, had the strongest showing, winning 6,015 or 21.7 percent of the 27,795 available positions.

PAM was followed by the ruling Independence party, Istiqlal, with 5,292 seats or 19 percent of the vote. RNI followed with 4,112 seats or 14.8 percent, then USFP with 3,226 seats or 11.6 percent. Mouvement Populaire, MP, gained 2,213 positions or 8 percent of the vote.

Perhaps the most surprising result was the sixth place finish of the leading Islamist party, the Party of Justice and Development (PJD) who garnered only 5.4% of the vote or a little over 1,500 seats. The UC took 4.7% of the vote or 1,307 seats and the PPS received 4% of the vote or 1,102 seats.

Although the elections have been largely declared free and fair by international observers, accusations of illegal conduct abound.

In Fez medina, one rumor claims that ballots from the 2007 elections were found in polling stations across the city. Old ballots are sometimes used to buy votes. This can occur either when a party obtains a blank ballot or has an old ballot from the previous year. They select their own party and then give it to a voter. If the voter places that ballot in the box, but then returns with his blank ballot from the current year, the party can be assured that he has voted for their party and he can be paid. Because uncontested ballots are burned following the counts, such accusations cannot be confirmed.



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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Moroccan elections


A small USFP (Union Socialiste des Forces Populaires) rally. Their symbol is the rose.


Today registered voters across the country participate in communal or local elections. At stake are local bureaucratic positions, with a term of 6 years. As a result, the Medina is teeming with party “militants,” supporters of every age who go door to door handing out fliers, carrying posters and causing copious traffic jams.

Despite this show of force, Moroccan political parties face a formidable challenge in mobilizing voters. The political system is extremely fragmented, with more than thirty parties. Multi-party elections have a brief history in the country. If the last election is any indication most Moroccans have little interest in the polls.

In 2007, legislative elections drew only thirty-eight percent of registered voters . Of those who voted, nearly a fifth left their ballots blank. This low turnout was an unexpected conclusion to the extensive ‘get out the vote‘ campaigns by local parties and voter education drives organized by the Ministry of the Interior, who oversees the elections.

In a country with high illiteracy, party symbols take on increased importance.Some of the significant parties advertising on this wall include: PAM (the blue tractor), PJD ( the black lantern), and Istiqlal (the scale).

Every election has its controversy. This year, the political party PAM (Parti d’Authenticite et Modernite) has been the centre of attention. The party, recently formed by a friend of the King, Fouad Ali El Himma, has been building its base by recruiting prominent members of the other parties. Many Moroccans believe PAM to be unstoppable because of El Himma’s connections to the monarchy and his assumed ability to gather information. The party hit its first obstacle two weeks ago when the Interior Ministry decided to enforce Article 5 of the Electoral Code, which prohibits parliamentarians from switching parties except during elections. Because legislative elections will not be held again until 2012, prominent legislators are now prohibited from defecting to PAM in order to strengthen the party’s chances at the local level. Many parties complained that the Interior Ministry’s hesitation to enforce the code was due to El Himma’s relationship with the monarchy. In response, PAM joined the opposition.

Some fear PAM’s connections and extensive political network combined with its recent origins and consequently lack of political baggage will assure its victory today. Others believe the Islamic party PJD will triumph on their platform of honesty. Either way, the elections are likely to mark a significant shift in the political life of Morocco.


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Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Fez: City of Festivals



The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music might only just have finished, but there are plenty of other cultural events to keep you busy for the rest of the year.

Fondation Esprit de Fès


The Spirit of Fez Foundation has three objectives:
- to boost the image of Fez by valuing its cultural life, events and artistic creativity
- to develop and make more accessible information on the city's culture
- to promote Fez internationally on a cultural and artistic level

To this end, events for the rest of 2009 are:

25-27 June
International Forum of Mediterranean Women (see our article here)

2-5 July
Amazigh Cultural Festival: features music, poetry and thought from the Amazigh Berber people.

23-27 September
Slam&Klam Festival: innovative artistic festival featuring artists in residence, poetry, videos, workshops and improvised music

October
Fez Culinary Art Festival: not only Moroccan cuisine, but input from Japan, Greece and Spain too.

13-15 November
Fez Jazz Festival. Yes, it's got a new name, we're pleased to note. And a more ambitious programme encompassing not only the medina but the whole city.

15-17 November
Forum of the Alliance of Civilisations & Cultural Diversity



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